Baseball card grading is one of the biggest drivers of value, trust, and liquidity in the hobby. A slabbed, authenticated card with a recognised numeric grade is easier to sell, insure, and price—especially when you’re comparing comps across marketplaces. If you’re collecting or investing in MLB cardboard, understanding how grading works is essential.
While you’re here, browse Cherry’s latest baseball stock and singles.
What Is Baseball Card Grading?
Grading is the professional evaluation of a card’s authenticity and condition, resulting in a numeric grade sealed inside a tamper-evident plastic case (“slab”). The market’s most recognised third-party graders include PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator), Beckett (BGS), and SGC.
Why it matters: graded cards are easier to trust and simpler to price. For the same card, a graded one will generally command far more than an ungraded copy because buyers can rely on a shared standard.
Where Can I Get a Baseball Card Graded?
Easy: with Cherry. We help collectors with submissions end-to-end like preparing your cards, paperwork and status updates. If you’re in Australia, using Cherry to coordinate your grading removes a lot of the friction of sending high-value items. Reach out and we’ll steer you to the right service for your card, budget, and timeline.
A Brief History of Baseball Card Grading
By the late 80s/early 90s, the hobby needed a fix: condition terms like “Near Mint” were inconsistent, and counterfeits were on the rise. PSA’s 1–10 scale emerged as a simple, universal yardstick. Over time, grading evolved to include subgrades (Beckett’s separate scores for centering, corners, edges, surface), population reports (how many copies exist at each grade), and tamper-proof slabs with serial numbers and scannable verification. The result? A common language that lets a collector in Melbourne confidently buy from a seller in Miami.
Why Does Grading Matter in 2025?
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Trust at a glance: A third-party grade reduces disputes.
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Protection: Slabs shield against handling damage, UV, and dust.
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Pricing clarity: Population reports help you gauge scarcity.
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Liquidity: In 2025, vintage in high grade remains blue-chip, while modern rookies in a 10 are some of the most liquid cards in the hobby.
How Are Baseball Cards Graded?
Submission
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Identify your candidates (see the checklist below).
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Choose the service level (value tiers vs turnaround time).
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Complete forms.
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Pack securely
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Ship & track
Evaluation Criteria
Graders examine four key areas under strong light and magnification:
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Centering: Front/back image alignment within the borders.
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Corners: Sharpness and point integrity (no dings).
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Edges: Clean cut without whitening or chipping.
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Surface: Print lines, scratches, dents, dimples, stains, or print defects.
Grading Scales
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PSA: 1–10. PSA 10 = Gem Mint.
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BGS (Beckett): 1–10 with subgrades (centering, corners, edges, surface). Pristine and Black Label tiers exist for top-tier specimens.
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SGC: 1–10 with half-grades; beloved for its black-tuxedo slab aesthetic.
Slabbing & Authentication
Once graded, your card is encapsulated with a label that shows the grade, a unique serial number for verification and pop report checks.
Factors That Impact Baseball Card Grading
Print Quality & Centering
Even pack-fresh cards can be off-centre. Severe front centering issues are the fastest way to sink a grade, so check the borders before you send.
Surface Imperfections
Tiny lines, scratches, or micro-dents can be hard to see. Tilt under strong, indirect light; use a microfiber cloth sparingly to remove any loose dust (never rub aggressively).
Corners & Edges
Look for clean, square corners and edges free of whitening or chipping—especially on dark-border sets where flaws are amplified.
Authenticity Checks
Graders verify real vs. reprint, detect alterations (trimming, recolouring), and authenticate autographs where applicable. Any signs of tampering can lead to an “Altered” or “Authentic” (no grade) designation.
Graded vs Raw Baseball Cards
Graded advantages:
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Higher resale potential
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Tamper-evident protection
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Easier pricing via comps and pop reports
Graded drawbacks:
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Submission fees and shipping
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Wait times
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Not always profitable for low-value cards
When grading makes sense:
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Vintage with strong eye appeal
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Rookies and serial-numbered parallels
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Clean, well-centred modern cards you plan to hold or resell
Common Misconceptions About Grading
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“All graded cards are valuable.” Not true—grade + demand drive value.
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“Raw cards can’t be sold.” They can, but buyers price more conservatively due to risk.
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“Older cards can’t grade high.” Rare, but possible—and valuable when they do.
How to Tell if a Card Is Worth Submitting
Do a quick pre-screen at home:
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Centering: Use a ruler/app to eyeball border ratios on front and back.
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Surface: Tilt under bright, indirect light to spot scratches and print lines.
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Edges/Corners: Hand lens or jeweller’s loupe to find whitening, nicks, or dents.
Selling and Collecting Graded Baseball Cards
Where to Sell
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Cherry (sell to us!)
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Auction houses for premium/vintage
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Online marketplaces for speed and reach
How to Price
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Check population reports for scarcity.
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Compare recent sold listings (exact player, set, grade, parallel).
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Factor timing (season, performance spikes, awards).
Hold or Sell?
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Rookie cards often appreciate as careers build; grading locks condition today.
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Hype spikes (debuts, milestones) create windows to sell—especially on modern parallels.
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PC vs. profit: If it’s a forever card, grade for protection and peace of mind.
Final Thoughts: Is Grading Worth It?
For the right cards, yes. Grading adds protection, legitimacy, and often value. It shines for vintage, rookies, low-numbered parallels, and clean modern issues. Even when a card doesn’t gem, a respected grade can remove doubt and widen your buyer pool.
Start Your Baseball Card Collecting Journey with Cherry Collectables
Ready to submit or just getting started? We’re here to help with advice, pre-checks, and submissions—plus fresh stock dropping every week.
